This may have been my cousin John, or else I surely zoomed in from a far to get this perspective. Perhaps I took this after getting my first sports lens (which was really generous of my family to indulge me with). I no longer remember.
Surfing is something I enjoy watching quite a bit more than doing. On this particular morning I’m sure the water was bitter cold, and even those booties and a wetsuit wouldn’t be enough to get me in those great white shark waters, with the Farallon Islands just offshore. But you don’t have to twist my arm to watch “The Endless Summer,” “Riding Giants,” or “Step Into Liquid.”
Sophie's External Brain 